After years of controversy regarding the lingerie company’s inclusivity, Victoria’s Secret has launched a new wave of brand ambassadors, the Victoria’s Secret Collective, featuring inspirational women like US footballer Megan Rapinoe and plus-size model Paloma Elsesser. 

Cyril Attias “victoria’s secret fashion show 2010” by cattias.photos

Fashion has rapidly shifted over the last decade. Thanks to the rise of social media, consumers have greater control over brand popularity and can directly demand change such as diversity in models and a wider range in sizing. While many fashion brands have listened to their customers, Victoria’s Secret stubbornly stuck to promoting ultra-thin ‘Angels’ as the standard, even at the cost of profit and popularity. It was almost surprising to hear that they are rebranding – promising to finally prioritise women’s comfort in their designs, creating the VS Global Fund for Women’s Cancers and announcing the Victoria’s Secret Collective. 

So, what is the Victoria’s Secret Collective?

Former Head of International Business (now currently the brand’s chief executive) Martin Waters admits that “when the world was changing, we were too slow to respond,” and now the brand is racing to rehabilitate their image. Replacing the ‘Angels’, the VS Collective includes Rapinoe, Elsesser alongside freestyle skier Eileen Gu, model Adut Akech, actor Priyanka Chopra, transgender model and activist Valentina Sampaio and photographer Amanda de Cadenet. All seven women are trailblazers in their respective fields and will advise the brand and advertise it on their social media. The VS Collective is a clear attempt at shifting the brand’s focus from objectifying to empowering women. 

Selling the fantasy

Arguably the biggest promotional tactic of the brand was the Victoria’s Secret fashion show, which lasted over two decades, and featured supermodels Tyra Banks and Adriana Lima adorned with stilettos and elaborate wings. The ‘Angels’ were glorified by the media as the ideal for women’s bodies and sex appeal. The brand’s allegedly strict body requirements for their models (their body fat percentage must be 18%, their height must be at least 1.75m and their waist cannot be bigger than 60cm) was frequently promoted as what women must aspire to and contributed to the low self-esteem of teens and young women over the last century.

In addition, the brand has also been accused of transphobia following the comments from former chief marketing officer, Ed Razek, “It’s like, why doesn’t your show do this? Shouldn’t you have transsexuals in the show? No. No, I don’t think we should. Well, why not? Because the show is a fantasy. It’s a 42-minute entertainment special. That’s what it is.” These comments arguably permanently damaged the perception of Victoria’s Secret, with some people (understandably) still determined to boycott the brand. 

This standard of exclusion was also reflected in the lingerie itself. I have heard countless disappointment from women at the brand’s overall decreasing quality, limited sizing, and uncomfortable designs. Victoria’s Secret’s priority to cater to the male gaze came at a cost of losing thousands of customers. Brands like Savage X Fenty quickly gained loyalty for valuing women of all sizes and backgrounds. 

Cyril Attias “Victoria Secret Show 2009” by cattias.photos is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Is it all too little too late? 

Considering the questionable history and public disdain towards the brand, it is easy to see the VS Collective as nothing more than a cheap ploy to regain interest. Personally, I am cautiously optimistic. Victoria’s Secret is undoubtedly desperate to be the leading lingerie company again. However, unlike many brand equality initiatives, there is change beyond brand ambassadors with Razek being fired and the board being made up of mostly women (six out of seven).

With the return of their swimwear line and expansion to sportswear, Victoria’s Secret is showing to be in tune with current trends. Moreover, they have previously announced a maternity line, modelled by nine-months pregnant, Grace Elizabeth. While the models in the campaigns have become increasingly diverse, we have yet to see bigger size variety for the actual products, and we do not know if the new products will improve. If Victoria’s Secret is committed to accommodating the needs of women, they can become the next checkpoint for fun and functional lingerie, but only time will tell. 

Fashion is ever-evolving, people have more options, Victoria’s Secret will need to put in A LOT of work to convince people they have truly changed. People see that companies can be authentically diverse and will rightfully hold you accountable if you fall short. The VS Collective is a great initiative and leaves me hopeful for the brand’s future, but it is way too early to celebrate.